Ryo & Ruiz Rénovation

20×120 herringbone tiling over existing tiles — Carcans

📍 Carcans🗓 2026-09
Before
Before — 20×120 herringbone tiling over existing tiles — Carcans
After
After — 20×120 herringbone tiling over existing tiles — Carcans

55 m² of 20×120 wood-effect porcelain tiles laid in herringbone directly over the old tiles of a living area and its hallway in Carcans, after localised levelling and a bonding primer.

In Carcans, in a house undergoing a full renovation, we redid the floor of the living area and the hallway: 55 m² of 20×120 wood-effect porcelain tiles, laid in herringbone, directly over the old tiles. The customer chose the tiles and the pattern. The job took 9 days with a team of two.

The customer wanted to avoid lifting the old floor. Before going down that route, we checked that the existing tiles could serve as a base, and that the extra thickness would clear the doors and thresholds.

What we did

  • Tapping every old tile with a mallet to find any that sounded hollow
  • Checking flatness with a straightedge
  • Localised levelling: filling the strips left on the floor by demolished partition walls, and dips outside tolerance
  • Cleaning and degreasing the whole surface
  • Bonding primer over all of the old tiles
  • Setting out the herringbone so the pattern runs unbroken from the living area into the hallway and finishes cleanly at the door thresholds
  • Tiles bedded with back-buttering, using a C2S1 flexible adhesive
  • Tile levelling clips across the whole floor
  • Fine 1 mm grout joints in a colour matched to the tiles

Tiling over old tiles: the conditions

Keeping the old tiles avoids a long, noisy and dusty strip-out, and rubble to take away. But the new floor can only be as sound as the old one. Three checks decide whether it is possible.

The old tiles must be well bonded. A tile that sounds hollow under the mallet has come away from its base: cover it, and sooner or later it will move and crack the tile laid on top.

The base must be flat. Here, demolishing the partition walls had left strips of floor with no tiles, and a few areas were out of tolerance. We levelled those areas locally, without redoing the whole surface.

The adhesive must be able to grip. A tile glaze is smooth and non-porous: adhesive spread straight onto it bonds poorly. After cleaning and degreasing, a bonding primer applied over the whole surface gives the adhesive a reliable key.

20×120 in herringbone

A long, narrow tile leaves no room for error. Back-buttering, with adhesive on both the base and the back of the tile, gives full contact along its length. C2S1 adhesive is flexible: it takes up small movements between the old and new tiles. The levelling clips hold the tiles in the same plane at every joint, so no edge sits proud of its neighbour.

In herringbone, each tile butts against the side of the next. The slightest drift repeats and grows row after row: the pattern wanders off line and the joints stop lining up. With 1 mm joints, the margin is even smaller. So the setting-out was planned before the first tile went down: the pattern runs unbroken from the living area into the hallway, and finishes cleanly at the door thresholds.

Planning a new floor? Ask for a free quote.

Project photos

Old beige tiles in the living area before the works, with strips left on the floor by demolished partition walls
Same view after laying, 20x120 oak-effect tiles in herringbone across the whole living area under exposed beams
Herringbone pattern of the wood-effect tiles seen down the length of the room, towards the French windows
Living area tiled in herringbone, with the pattern finished off at a door threshold
Hallway before the works, old beige tiles between brick partition walls
Hallway tiled in herringbone continuing on from the living area, with fine 1 mm joints
Oak-effect herringbone running to the end of the hallway, meeting the old tiles at the edge of the work area